Gardening is Easy

Easy-to-grow Veronica

2010-09-20T15:55:00.004+02:00

I’ve mentioned before that my father loved blue flowers, that’s why he always had Veronica growing somewhere in his garden.

Gardeners who love the colour blue know that veronica provides some of the clearest, truest blues in the perennial border. Other flower colours are also available, including pink, rose and white. Veronicas have flower spikes that are composed of dozens of densely arranged, small florets, that open progressively from the base upwards to form a long lasting spike.

I love using this very versatile plant along my garden paths and in the seating areas, where butterflies can collect on this long-blooming flower.

Although low-growing varieties are available, the most common veronicas form attractive 30cm to 90cm tall mounds. Narrow spikes of tiny flowers adorn the plant in midsummer and are superb in bouquets.

The lower spreading varieties seldom exceed 10cm in height and are a very good groundcover addition in your garden.

Veronica can be a workhorse in the cut flower garden; it will provide a full second crop of stems if cut down completely to the ground after the first harvest. Veronica is a spiky or linear type flower that provides movement, action, or life to an arrangement, and is long lasting in the vase.

For the full low-down on growing Veronica, including a list of good companion plants, visit my website http://tinyurl.com/2fk2zc5

Shasta Daisies in the garden

2010-09-20T15:51:00.003+02:00

As a child I always seemed to have hayfever if I got too close to the Shasta Daisies in my father’s garden. But what I remember most, was the dazzling brightness of the white blooms that always offset the bright colours of the dahlias, larkspur, gazanias, arctotis and zinnias that grew so prolifically under the African sun.

Just over 100 years ago, horticulturalist Luther Burbank introduced his Shasta Daisy to the world. Burbank had spent 17 years creating the hybrid he named for the pure white snow on Mount Shasta that Burbank could see from his garden.

Burbank admired the fresh white flowers and yellow eye of the wild Oxeye Daisies. He wanted to create a garden version of the plant that would be good for cutting as well as the perennial border.

The Shasta Daisy of today was the result of crossing the Oxeye Daisy (Leucanthemum vulgare) with English field daisies (Leucanthemum maximum) and then crossing the best selections from that match with the Portuguese field daisy (Leucanthemum lacustre). After six years of selectively breeding within this pool, Burbank added the pollen of Japanese field daisy (Nipponanthemum nipponicum), for its pure white flowers.

The simple white flowers with yellow button centres are a symbol of purity and are perfect for cutting. Easy to grow, they are a favourite for beginner flower gardeners and are effective when planted in small groups.

The full story on how to grow Shasta daisies visit my website now http://tinyurl.com/2dj9wst

Colourful Rhododendrons and Azaleas

2010-04-11T16:21:00.006+02:00

Every year in September the famous Cheerio Halt garden in the quaint gold rush hamlet of Haenertsburg (in South Africa’s Limpopo Province) erupts in an explosion of colour.

Botanist Sheila (Box) Thompson created the delightful blossom garden here over a period of 48 years, and crammed it with azaleas and other flowering shrubs such as crab apple and flowering cherry, peach and pear. Seeing the garden on this misty mountain when it is in top form is an unforgettable experience.

What, today, made me think about my last visit to Box Thompson’s garden? I have just posted a new profile on Rhododendrons and Azaleas on my website and never again can I see or think about a Rhododendron without thinking about the spectacle of those colourful flowers reflecting in the water of the Pond at Cheerio Halt.

There is no reason why you shouldn’t also enjoy the pleasure of what are among the most decorative shrubs available for the home garden.

Varying in size from mat‑like dwarf shrubs only a few centimetres high to trees higher than 7m, Rhododendrons and Azaleas can be planted in any size of garden and thrive in a variety of positions.

The flowers of rhododendrons and azaleas have a wide range of colour: white, pink, lavender, violet, purple, yellow, crimson, scarlet and orange. The shapes of the flowers range through tubular, starry, funnel, bowl and bell‑shaped, varying in size from 2‑15 cm wide and 2‑10cm long.

Rhododendrons need to be grown in dappled or light shade. The soil should be moist and acid — the plants will not thrive in soil containing chalk or lime. Given the right conditions, a succession of varieties can be in flower for several months of the year.

Generally, the plants look their best in a natural or wilderness garden, where they are not restricted to the formal confines of beds and lawns, but I have also grown them successfully in containers in a secluded courtyard.

Because rhododendrons and azaleas range in size from tree‑like giants to prostrate dwarfs, you should decide on the space you have to fill before buying your shrubs.

For the full story on Rhododendrons and Azaleas visit my website now http://tinyurl.com/y8owku4 .

Lovely, easy, Larkspur

2010-03-15T10:33:00.003+02:00

One of my Twitter friends mentioned that her grandfather had grown Larkspur in the garden every summer. That reminded me of the larkspur my father always grew near the kitchen door of the house, so that he could see the rich colour (he loved blue flowers) every time he exited the door.

The Larkspur is an easy and delightful plant for many landscapers and gardeners, adding old-fashioned charm to any bed or border.

Bold and attractive, these hardy annuals grow light, feathery flowers atop tall spikes. Use larkspur in cottage gardens, or butterfly gardens. Larkspur also makes an excellent cutting flower so landscapers can use it in cut flower gardens.

Larkspur is a beautiful and popular annual that comes in colours of blue, lavender, white, rose, and pink, although blue is the most popular colour. Larkspur has a lacy kind of foliage (much like Cosmos) with blooms highly compacted on long tapering spikes that give it a tall, regal appearance. It generally grows in 30cm or 60cm high spires, although some people have reported heights of up to 1.2m and more.

These big plants grow quickly to produce flowers in spring, earlier than many annuals. Larkspur makes an excellent garden flower, and also looks great in vases, although its vase life is seven days or less. They can also be dried for winter arrangements. Larkspur is excellent massed in groups. Tall plants look their best in the back of the flower garden.

This multi-use annual is so easy to grow — just get it started and it will be happy to reseed itself for the next year!

The plant profile I posted on my website explains how to propagate, grow and care for Larkspur. Go there now! http://tinyurl.com/yhkrbmy

Seductive Jasmine

2010-03-15T10:04:00.002+02:00

Plant Jasmine and experience the delight of a very fragrant spring and summer garden. I couldn’t imagine my garden without the evening scent of Jasmine.

The name Jasmine is derived from the Persian yasmin which means ‘a gift from God' — so named because of the intense fragrance of the blooms of Persian or common jasmine Jasminum officinale. There are over 300 jasminum species that occur mainly in the tropical and warm temperate regions of the world — including South Africa — although a few are found in countries with cold winters. Jasmine is a very popular flower around the world, because of its unique fragrance.

Unlike most genera in the Oleceae family, which have four corolla lobed petals, Jasmines often have five or six lobes. Jasmine is widely cultivated for its shining leaves and beautiful clusters of fragrant flowers.

Flowering in Jasmines takes place in summer or spring, usually six months after planting. The Jasmine flower releases its fragrance at night after the sun has set and especially when the moon is waxing towards fullness. Jasmine flower buds are more fragrant than the flowers.

Most species grow as scrambling climbers or sprawling shrubs and can also be massed as groundcover in large gardens. Most will also grow well in containers.

The new Jasmine profile posted on my website not only tells you how to grow and care for Jasmine, but also provides descriptions for 12 great species of jasmine, including some that can tolerate temperatures as low as -18^oC. Go there now! http://tinyurl.com/ykzymab

Delightful Cottage Gardens

2010-02-17T16:20:00.003+02:00

Cottage gardens embrace charm and character, but they rely on the same basic principles as any other style of garden.

Start by creating a basic shape of hard landscaping, then add ‘core’ trees, shrubs and perennials that give the garden its personality. Leave the fine detail until last.

Cottage gardens conjure up small gardens full to the brim of plants, so much so that the plants dominate the garden — and why not? Mix every colour and shape and pack them all into a small space to create a sense of fun.

These gardens offer somewhere to potter about in and lose yourself for a while. All those little nooks and crannies to hide gardening objects, like those that you see in the small Flower Show gardens. Objects like old bikes, wheelbarrows, bird baths and terracotta pots can add fun and personalise your garden.

Anyone who has ever attempted to create a cottage garden has probably already discovered that the concept is somewhat hard to define in an exact and precise manner. I do, though, disagree with people who insist that you cannot have a cottage garden without a cottage. While there are many elements that may be present in the majority of cottage gardens, as the term is more widely applied, it is also true that some ambiguity applies as to whether certain items and design characteristics are required as essential features.

The cottage garden is an adaptable style and one can easily venture away from the mould of the traditional. One could easily create a cottage garden of only native plants or use only the new and exotic. This style is especially suited to the plantaholic that is continually searching out the rare and unusual and would definitely lead to the creation of a non-traditional cottage garden.

I have had a great deal of fun writing the extensive post on cottage gardens which you will find on my website http://tinyurl.com/ylbdwh6. Drop by, you’ll enjoy the visit.

Alluring and Healing Agapanthus

2010-02-16T12:12:00.002+02:00

Easy-to-grow Agapanthus (African Lily) produce glorious clusters of lily-like blooms that last throughout the summer.

Yesterday I posted a new Agapanthus plant profile on my website.

The six or so species that comprise the genus Agapanthus (African Lily) are found growing wild along the coastal belt and inland mountainous regions of southern Africa. These clump forming perennials have been collected from their natural habitats and developed into many spectacular garden hybrids that adorn landscapes all around the world.

I guess, as I live and garden in South Africa, the native home of Agapanthus I have tended to take this amazing plant for granted. The gardens of my childhood home always included masses of both blue and white varieties. As children we loved to use the tall flower stems (after the flowers had withered) for Zorro style sword fights! My garden now, has a number of the indigenous species all of which give great pleasure.

Perhaps what most gardeners fail to give much thought to, is the wonderful medicinal properties of so many of the plants we grow in our gardens. In South Africa, many of the indigenous African people consider Agapanthus to be both a magical and a medicinal plant, and the plant of fertility and pregnancy.

Traditionally Xhosa women (of the Eastern Cape) use the roots to make antenatal medicine, and they make a necklace using the roots that they wear as a charm to bring healthy, strong babies.

The Zulu people of KwaZulu-Natal use Agapanthus to treat heart disease, paralysis, coughs, colds, chest pains and tightness. It is also used with other plants in various medicines taken during pregnancy to ensure healthy children, or to augment or induce labour. In some tribal groupings it is used as a love charm and by people afraid of thunderstorms, and to ward off thunder.

Margaret Roberts a renowned herb grower, author and specialist in the use of herbal remedies, advises hikers to put leaves in their shoes to soothe the feet, and to wrap weary feet in the leaves for half an hour. The long, strap-like leaves also make an excellent bandage to hold a dressing or poultice in place, and winding leaves around the wrists are said to help bring a fever down.

Agapanthus contains several saponins and sapogenins that generally have anti-inflammatory (reduce swelling and inflammation), anti-oedema (oedema = swelling due to accumulation of fluid), antitussive (relieve or suppress coughing) and immunoregulatory (have influence on the immune system) properties. Although the precise activity of Agapanthus compounds is not known, preliminary tests have shown uterotonic activity (increases the tone of uterine muscles).

Agapanthus is suspected of causing haemolytic poisoning in humans, and the sap causes severe ulceration of the mouth so the plant should not be chewed or swallowed.

If you would like to know more about the propagation, planting and growing of these wonderful plants and the many hybrids now available, visit my website http://tinyurl.com/y9feaso . I am sure that you will find the visit rewarding.

Cottage gardens are all about plants.

2010-02-05T14:44:00.006+02:00

So often the cottage garden tends to be glorified, as if it stepped out of the pages of a fairy tale or a Thomas Kinkade painting. In reality, along with being beautiful, it is a highly useful style of garden. It can be, and has been, adapted to fit our modern life styles and its appeal is truly global.

Cottage gardens reflect your own personal mix of plants — whether flowers, fruit or vegetables. The emphasis is on the year-round pleasure of enjoying their form, flowers and scent - not to mention picking your own salads, herbs, fruit and vegetables.

I am currently working on a new section for my website that will deal with concepts for cottage gardens, the plants that are most appropriate, the use of hard and soft landscaping and so on. Looking back at the many plant profiles I have posted on the site, I suddenly realised how many of the plants are suited to cottage gardens. I have subconsciously gravitated towards writing about the plants of my childhood, the plants that my own father favoured in the garden.

Two of my most recent posts to my website deal with what are quintessential cottage garden flowers — Hollyhocks and Delphiniums. What gloriously reliable plants these are.

You can never have too many delphiniums. They are glorious plants with flower spikes that can grow up to 180cm tall. Normally, they are a range of blues, but are also available in white, pinks, and purple. They are standouts as background plants.

Hybridisation of delphiniums has resulted in many new colours and attractive flower forms and growing heights. Flower colours range in shades of blue from palest sky, through to gentian and indigo; rich purple, lavender, pink to purest white.

The resurgence in Hollyhock popularity comes from several factors. Renewed interest in cottage gardens, a desire for drought and heat tolerance in garden flowers and the introduction of many new varieties are all helping fuel their new popularity.

Hollyhock plants are a fun and easy to grow flowering plant. It’s an old time favourite. Hollyhocks are a large plant with big leaves and big blossoms. They produce a profusion of big flowers from summer through autumn. They are perfect to fill large areas, and the back of a flowerbed. Hollyhocks can be used in perennial, biennial and annual applications depending on the type and treatment.

If you would like to know more about these venerable cottage garden plants visit http://tinyurl.com/y88ljd3 for information about hollyhocks and http://tinyurl.com/yfgops4 for the low-down on Delphiniums. It really will be worth the effort!

Strelitzia — the Bird of Paradise or Crane Flower

2010-01-31T15:38:00.001+02:00

Although my personal tastes in gardening lean towards cottage gardens, here on the Highveld (South Africa’s central plateau that is mainly a grassland biome), indigenous South African plants are my preference — because they tolerate the rugged environment, are more drought and frost tolerant, appeal to local birds and butterflies and lend themselves to appropriate landscaping for this environment.

The fascinating blooms of Strelitzia reginae are sold as cut flowers by the million. In Los Angeles strelitzias are so extensively planted that it is regarded as the emblem of the city. Strelitzia reginae is, however, indigenous to South Africa where it grows wild in the Eastern Cape. Here the strelitzias grow in rocky grassland and between other shrubs along the riverbanks and in clearings in the coastal bush.

Strelitzia reginae is a bold structural plant, which forms large evergreen clumps of stiff leaves growing up from the base. The grey-green banana-like leaves grow about 1,5 m in height and the flowers stand above the foliage at the tips of long stalks. Mature plants are very floriferous with flowers in autumn, winter and spring. These produce abundant nectar that lures insects, and birds which (in South Africa) include White-bellied, Black, Grey, Collared, Malachite and Marico Sunbirds and the Cape White‑eye.

Popular with landscapers, this architecturally pleasing plant is ideal for modern landscapes, creating an impact not only in home gardens, but also in office complex gardens, schools and large parks. This Strelitzia can form an impressive groundcover when mass‑planted in very light partial shade.

For detailed information about growing Strelizia reginae and the other Strelizia species visit http://tinyurl.com/yabvvau I am sure you will find the content very useful.

And now for Anemones . . .

2010-01-31T15:16:00.002+02:00

My father had a great love for Anemones, and their cousin Ranunculus, and while I always recall his spring garden awash with colour, it was the Anemones that fascinated me.

Anemones have rich bright colours that are great for mass colour in garden beds in sunny positions. Anemones are also great cut flowers and produce successions of flowers over a long period.

The Anemone family is a large one (over 120 species), but it is Anemone coronaria, which is the gem of the Autumn planting selection. Best known and generally sold as a 'bulb' the 'bulbs' are more correctly described as tubers.

Anemone coronaria is an excellent subject for container gardening and is a reliable performer. For Autumn planting fun and great container charm, Anemone Coronaria remains a winner.

If you would like to know more about growing Anemones, visit http://tinyurl.com/y8lhbhb. You will find some very useful information

You can never have too many delphiniums

2010-01-31T14:55:00.002+02:00

I am currently working on a feature for my website on Cottage gardens, and today I posted a piece on growing Delphiniums. In my view, you can never have too many delphiniums in a cottage garden.

Delphiniums are glorious plants with flower spikes that can grow up to 180cm tall. Normally, they are a range of blues, but are also available in white, pinks, and purple. They are standouts as background plants.

The delphinium is a genus of fully to half-hardy perennials, biennials and annuals so much admired particularly in the cottage garden setting. When grown in warm zones they are generally treated as annuals while in cool zones they can be successful as perennials. Delphiniums are tall, majestic plants with showy open flowers on branching spikes.

Another name for Delphinium is ‘Larkspur’. These beautiful blooms add a touch of grace to any garden and make a wonderful bouquet of cut flowers that will last about seven days in a vase. The modern delphinium is one of the most spectacular and popular of garden flowers. There are wide ranges of colours, several flower forms, and varieties of different heights.

The modern delphinium is the result of hybridisation of delphinium species from wide and varied parts of the world. Crosses made by growers keen to improve specimens they were able to acquire have resulted in the modern plants, which are truly spectacular. Many are varieties that are disease resistant, offering protection against both powdery mildew and black spot.

If you are interested in knowing more about growing Delphiniums go to http://tinyurl.com/yfgops4 I am sure you will find the post interesting!

An apology

2010-01-31T14:30:00.002+02:00

Hi everyone.

No, I did not fall off the end of the earth during my travels. I have been battling with eye problem for months, that limited my use of the computer and I simply couldn't keep the blog going. I did manage to keep posting to my website and some of you have probably read those posts.

Everything is much better now, so from today I will attempt to play catchup with some new posts that I hope you will find interesting. I am looking forward to sharing with you again!

Easy-growing Gerberas

2009-11-29T15:21:00.003+02:00

I planted some vividly coloured Gerberas (also known as Barberton daisy or Transvaal Daisy) a couple of years ago and am starting to see great results as the plants clump and produce lots of blooms.

The species is indigenous to South Africa’s Mpumalanga Province and its common name arose from the old gold‑rush town of Barberton, where it grows in great profusion. In its natural environment Gerbera jamesonii grows in well‑drained soil in grassland areas.

If grown in the right conditions, the plants will flower for many months through summer and into winter. Although these daisies grow best in sheltered, frost‑free positions, they will tolerate some frost. The soil should be well drained, and mixed with plenty of organic material. If the soil in your garden is heavy, compensate by raising the beds 15‑30 cm above ground level and mixing some river sand into the soil.

Gerbera daisies are among the best and most attractive flowers for cutting, but they should be cut a day or two before they are to be displayed, because the flowers tend to close up the night after they are cut. To make the flowers last longer you should dip the ends of their stems in boiling water after cutting.

There is a full profile on Gerbera daisies with good growing tips on my website http://tinyurl.com/yesg4sy. Drop by now to find out just how easy it is to grow these magnificent plants.

Make ground covers your friend

2009-11-29T15:10:00.001+02:00

Ground covers can be among the most attractive and useful plant groupings in your home landscape.

We’ve been getting lots of rain and the ground covers are thriving. Some have needed some radical trimming, but they do add a lushness to the garden. I have been thinking about some of the gardens I have visited that absolutely cry out for the addition of ground covers. And others where gardeners have simply planted the wrong groundcovers in the wrong places, ending up with strangled flower beds or shrivelled ground cover plants in shady areas.

Ground covering plants are just that — they spread or creep over the ground to form a dense, living carpet of foliage which can take the place of a lawn or fulfil many other useful purposes in the garden.

They include plants that propagate quickly to form a dense, lawn‑like carpet of greenery, plants that have coloured foliage or which flower profusely, and others that are really small, spreading shrubs. There is a large variety of texture and leaf form too, and there are ground covers to suit varying soil types and virtually any terrain, whether a rocky, steep bank or a damp, shady corner.

Ground covers are particularly well suited to informal gardens, and areas that are difficult to landscape in a conventional way. It is often difficult, or impossible, to grow a lawn on steep, rocky blocks of land, and even if a lawn can be established, mowing and maintenance could be a problem. Choose the right plant for the right place.

I have now added the first in a new series dealing with Ground Covers to my website http://tinyurl.com/yl5txaq. Head over there now for the lowdown. Future posts will deal with Propagation of ground covers, Planting and Caring for ground covers, and profiles of a number of popular ground covers.

Lilies are easy to grow

2009-11-05T20:02:00.003+02:00

I have been filling some gaps in my garden with lilies (for now, planted in their pots). Lilies add rich colours and splendid form to almost any landscape. From the classic to the ornate, they will delight your senses and enhance your gardening experience.

Lilies provide an easy to grow, colourful addition to your garden and landscape. By choosing a combination of early, mid-season, and late-blooming cultivars, you can have lilies in flower throughout. These hardy bulbs require only minimal care. Each has the capacity to grow, eventually, into a large cluster of flowering stems.

Valued for thousands of years, lilies are among the most varied of plants in their colour, size, and flowering time, and also in the conditions in which they will grow

One of the oldest of all cultivated flowers, the lily has been cherished since the days of the earliest civilisations. Records show that lilies were grown in Rome, Greece, China, Japan, and in ancient Egypt at least 3 000 years ago.

Few plants are as versatile as the lily, a genus of mainly hardy bulbs with about 90 species. All are perennials, but they vary widely in size, colour, flowering period, and the conditions in which they will thrive.

The first of a three-part series on Lilies is now up on my website http://tinyurl.com/yhh5dzd. Part Two of this series will be posted soon and will deal with Planting and Caring for Lilies. Part Three covers Propagation of Lilies.

Clivia — a garden delight

2009-09-28T16:12:00.004+02:00

My Clivia garden is currently providing a colourful spectacle. Clivia is a wonderful flowering plant. Elegant and imposing, it’s easier to grow than an orchid and more unusual than an amaryllis.

A Clivia plant will produce dense clusters of lily-like flowers. Equally important, the strap-like, dark evergreen leaves are virtually blemish free, making Clivia an attractive foliage plant, even when not in bloom.

Given the regal quality of the plant, a Clivia is surprisingly easy to grow. Clivia are hardy, low maintenance, shade-loving plants. They don’t like wet feet and need to be well-drained, may tolerate a little early morning sun, but prefer full shade, and are frost tender.

Six species of Clivia are endemic to South Africa, the most commonly grown being Clivia miniata, which is now cultivated all around the world. Many Clivia growers are using the species to create interspecific hybrids (the crossing or breeding of two species of the same genus). This is resulting in many varied shapes and colours in Clivia.

In late winter or spring, tall stalks shoot up from the leaves and bear crowded clusters of brightly coloured blossoms, after reaching 3-5 years of age. These evergreen plants typically have a large head (umbel) of between 12 and 20 trumpet shaped flowers on top of a thick stem.

The long-lasting flowers are usually orange with yellowish centres, but there are forms that bear scarlet, dark red, salmon, and yellow flowers. Little is known about the pollinators of Clivia and studies are now being undertaken to discover what pollinates it. Seed is dispersed by birds.

If you have a shady, frost-free corner in your garden, or if you would like to grow a spectacular flowering house plant, give Clivia a try. You will be well rewarded.

For the full story on propagating and growing Clivias visit my website http://tinyurl.com/yd46yfo now.

Superbly easy Scabiosa

2009-09-28T16:07:00.001+02:00

Easy-to-grow Scabiosa must be one of the prettiest garden flowers. Growing in small clumps, the flowerheads stand above the foliage, gently moving with the slightest breeze. On warm summer days, butterflies are often seen on the flowers, for Scabiosa is one of their favourite nectar plants.

The Dipsacaceae or Scabious family is found in Africa and Asia, but is most abundant in the Mediterranean region where there are 11 genera and 290 species. Two genera are indigenous to southern Africa, Cephalaria and Scabiosa. In South Africa there are nine species of Scabiosa.

The Scabiosa family is large and so plants grown in the garden may be hardy annual, half hardy annual, hardy biennial or Hardy perennial in nature.

Scabiosa range in height from 15 to 60cm. They bloom from spring through to the first months of autumn, and carry domed flowers of white, blue, purple, red or yellow atop long stems.

As they are often mat forming they make ideal plants for use in garden borders.

Some of the more common names for Scabiosa include, Scabious, Sweet Scabious, Pincushion flower and Mourning-bride.

The timing of the sowing of Scabiosa depends on their nature. Annuals are usually sown after the last frost, perennials may be sown at the start of spring or autumn. Scabiosa seeds should be lightly covered once sown and spaced at about 30 to 40cm apart. They like to grow in sunny areas that have good drainage. Ideally the soil that Scabiosa grows in should be humus rich, slightly alkaline (pH7 to pH8) and moist.

For the full story on propagating and growing Scabiosa visit my website http://tinyurl.com/yaazqdz now.

EASY-TO-GROW HEATHERS BRING YEAR ROUND COLOUR

2009-09-23T08:56:00.003+02:00

Heathers have long been our go-to plant for winter colour, flowering when most other plants quit, appreciating our acidic soil, and graciously holding onto their leaves in the process.

What many gardeners don’t know is that there are so many kinds of heather out there that if planted with a bit of forethought, one could have heathers blooming all year long. Add gorgeous gold, blue, orange and chocolate leaves to the mix and the result is spectacular.

When people mention heather, they are almost always talking about two different genera of plants: heaths and heathers. Although both belong to the Ericaceae family, they are botanically different and are divided into the Calluna genus and the Erica genus. For practical purposes, however, they are nearly identical, sharing colour, form, and growth habits.

We had enjoyed a close relationship with heather for many centuries before they became garden staples. They supplied forage and bedding for goats, cattle and sheep, a sleeping place for lonely shepherds on the moorlands, the major food source for some bird species and even a building material. Fuel and dyes were derived from them, and the nectar from the flowers produced some of the finest honey. Brushes, baskets, screens and hurdles are still made from the plants.

But though they have many uses, it is as decorative plants that heathers are supreme, producing flowers from late summer into winter, and from spring back into summer.

Acid soil is perfect for this plant, as with all ericaceous plants, but because it thrives naturally in poor soil, it will live on the cusp of acid, even tolerating a degree of alkaline soil and salt-laden coastal winds. Its other advantage is that it has a lovely range of flower colour and foliage.

For the full story on growing Heathers and Heaths visit my website http://tinyurl.com/m9hldd now!

GROW A BUTTERFLY GARDEN

2009-09-17T18:06:00.002+02:00

Butterflies are among the most beautiful and interesting creatures on Earth. By planting a butterfly garden with all of the right kinds of plants and flowers that butterflies love to feed on and lay eggs on, you will certainly have a yard full of butterflies throughout the growing season.

Butterfly gardens can be any size — a window box, part of your landscaped yard, or even a wild untended area on your property. The design for your butterfly garden is a matter of personal preference. Typical points to consider are the size of your garden and the types of flowers and plants you want to grow. Pick a style of garden that appeals to you, but ensure it also contains the plants and flowers that appeal to the butterflies you wish to attract.

Apart from sipping the occasional bit of nectar for energy and pollinating flowers as they go, butterflies have a very important function in life; to mate and for the female to lay her eggs on specific plants (called host plants) that are suitable for 'her' caterpillars to feed on. Each butterfly species has host plants that are specific to it. After mating, the female must begin the hunt for suitable plants, and will move from area to area (or garden to garden), gaining strength by sipping the odd bit of nectar from particular flowers along the way. She will continue her journey until she has located a suitable host plant in good enough condition to support hungry caterpillars.

Cultivate a wide selection of host plants and a variety of beautiful free‑flowering shrubs and perennials to supply nectar refreshment. Caterpillars rapidly grow into butterflies and the tree will soon boast a brand new set of bright and shiny leaves. Feeding caterpillars is a small sacrifice to make for the privilege of having brilliant butterflies flitting through the garden.

Butterfly gardens are a great source for your own enjoyment, photo opportunities, or an outlet for artistic talent.

For the full story on Butterfly Gardens visit my website http://tinyurl.com/npgn4k soon!

Gazania — an easy to grow gem from Africa

2009-09-11T19:47:00.003+02:00

If you have a sunny, dry spot in your garden where most plants don’t do well because it is too hot, consider growing Gazania there.

This genus of 16 species of annual and perennial daisies in the family Asteraceae hails mostly from South Africa, with one species extending the range to the tropics. They feature lovely showy flowers, which are large and brightly colored, and in favorable climates they can be relied upon to flower over a long period — in the southern Hemisphere from August till January reaching a peak in October and November. The species usually produce yellow or orange flowers, but the plants seen in cultivation are mainly hybrids and there are countless color forms and seedling strains.

The gazania flower grows easily in full sun, but can also do well in part-shade so long as they see a majority of sun during the day. Caring for these plants is very easy as they require very little in the way of watering or fertilising and they don't attract many pests. They are one of the ultimate waterwise plants and they flower prolifically. The plants are relatively short-lived, up to about three years depending on various conditions.

Gazania is pollinated by a number of insects: bees, bee flies, beetles, butterflies and ants, have all been seen visiting its bright flowers. This is another reason why they are able to thrive in most environments, as they do not have any specific pollinators.

For the full story on growing Gazanias visit my website http://tinyurl.com/mqazhq

THE LOTUS QUEST

2009-08-07T08:57:00.003+02:00

In his new book, author Mark Griffiths traces the history of the sacred plant Nelumbo nucifera the edible, incredible lotus flower.

Across Japan in the next few weeks, in lakes and tubs, ponds and paddyfields, the massive buds of the lotus flower will open in the dawn. From Ueno Park in downtown Tokyo to the remotest rural fastness, lotus-viewing festivals will take place, turning a flower show into a mass spectator sport during what is known as the Time of the Lotus.

Already fixtures in the Japanese diet, lotus rhizomes and seeds will be devoured in even greater quantities than usual; rice wine will be poured onto the plate-like leaves and their hollow stalks stuck between the lips to act as metre-long drinking straws. Around the middle of the month, a vast harvest of flowers and leaves will bring the lotus into millions of homes where it will play an essential role in Obon, Japan's great annual celebration of the returning dead.

This magical flower, which has touched so many civilizations and reconciled nature and culture, science and spirituality, has disappeared from our gardens and consciousness. Yet Nelumbo is easy to grow in a tub filled two thirds with soil, one third with water, and we have conservatories and sunny terraces aplenty. It is time for a revival.

The Lotus Quest by Mark Griffiths is published by Chatto & Windus.

This blog by the book's author is extracted from http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/gardening-blog/2009/aug/06/lotus-flower

Something Different from Africa

2009-07-26T21:18:00.009+02:00

I have just returned from a wonderful few days in a remote corner of South Africa’s Limpopo Province.

This rugged patch of Africa is remarkable for its rock formations, deep gorges and hundreds of rock art sites featuring the painting of early San (bushman) and Khoe Khoe settlers as well as later Northern Sotho protest art. Almost as remarkable as the landscape and concentration of important rock art, is the astounding variety of native plant life. Featured here are a few aloe species I photographed on the trip. Soon I will post full profile of each of these aloes on my website http://gardeningisezee.com/

Come back to this blog over the next few days as I post pictures of Giant Candelabra trees, an indigenous Gardenia, the little known Elephant’s Foot and more!

Astonishing Asters

2009-07-13T13:07:00.003+02:00

Excellent for massed bedding and as a cut flower, asters are easy to grow and there are both annual and perennial varieties (annual asters sown for late summer bedding are properly called callistephus).

Asters grow well in average soils, but needs full sun. Although some varieties flower in summer, Asters are best known for being a beautiful addition to an autumn flower garden. When so many other flowers end of their growing season, asters continue to thrive and provide brilliant colour and scent to an otherwise sad landscape.

Asters are easily grown from division. Aster plants do best if divided every two to three years. Simply dig out half to two thirds of the plants, leaving the remainder in place. Then separate the portion you dug out into two sections and plant in another location or give them to a friend.

Plant asters into your garden into an area where they can be grown for years. Spacing depends upon size with miniature varieties spaced four to 15cm apart, and giant varieties 30cm to 60cm apart. Place smaller varieties around the front of your flower garden as a border. Put larger varieties towards the back of the flowerbed

Asters will grow well in average soils. But, like all plants, they will reward your with bigger blooms and a healthier plant if you add plenty of compost. Also, add a general purpose fertilizer once a month.

Once your perennial asters are established, they should grow well for years. Soil should be moist, but not wet. They will withstand dry periods. Water them during dry periods, once or twice a week to keep growth vibrant. Add mulch around the plants for appearance and to keep weeds down.

Don't let another season pass without Asters. For the full story visit my website http://gardeningisezee.com/

YOUR JULY DIARY

2009-07-05T20:37:00.003+02:00

This month we should start reaping the rewards for the work done in autumn — all the spring annuals and bulbs are coming into flower and it is just a question of enjoying them.

Fortunately there are few pests and diseases to worry about, occasionally one does see an amaryllis caterpillar on the narcissi but as there are so few they can easily be dealt with.

BULBS

The winter‑flowering bulbs must be watered, fed and the faded blooms cut off. When removing faded daffodils just take off the blooms and leave the stems, the food in them will return to the bulbs. Never arrange daffodils with other flowers in a vase immediately after picking them but put them in water by themselves for a while. The other flowers will fade rapidly if the daffodils are put with them as soon as they are cut. The more anemones are picked the more the plants will produce. Ranunculus need abundant water when they come to flower, especially in the dry summer rainfall areas.

Inspect bulbs in storage as was done last month.

POT PLANTS

Again it is a question of routine care, feeding and watering those in flower and keeping the soil of those resting just damp. If African violets are fed regularly they should bloom nearly all year round. There is a special soluble fertiliser on the market for them.

If the hippeastrums (amaryllis) need repotting prepare the soil for them and start repotting towards the end of the month. Use pots about twice the diameter of the bulbs and make sure there is plenty of drainage material at the bottom of the pots. Do not forget to add some superphosphate to the potting mixture and a few lumps of charcoal in it will help to keep the soil sweet. Plant the bulbs with their necks well above ground level.

The lawn needs little attention except to be watered about once during the month in the summer rainfall areas. The grass may need mowing down in the warm coastal districts of Natal.

TREES, SHRUBS AND CLIMBERS

Shrubs which flower on the new wood sent out in spring, can be pruned this month. Remove thin spindly growth and shorten the old flowering wood back by about a third.

Visit the nurseries and choose shrubs in containers which can be planted at once. Make sure the soil in the containers is thoroughly moist before transplanting the shrubs. Plant them at the same depth they were growing at before except, if the roots are exposed, plant a little deeper.

Camellias and azaleas are coming into flower so visit the nurseries often to see them and choose new ones for the garden — they are very rewarding. Remember to water those in your garden once a week.

THE FLOWER GARDEN

Carry on with the regular care of the winter‑flowering annuals, paying particular attention to removing the faded flowers from pansies, primroses and violets and picking Iceland poppies and sweetpeas often. If the lower leaves of stocks and larkspur are turning yellow it is a sign of nitrogen deficiency. Two or three applications of limestone ammonium nitrate (LAN) every two weeks will soon remedy this. Dissolve a tablespoonful of LAN in 4,5 litres of water and apply to a square metre. Apply to damp soil and water in after application.

Sow seed of petunias and bedding begonias, water the pans from the bottom and place them in a warm semi‑shaded place. Cover at night or bring them inside to protect them from cold. If the seed is sown now the plants will flower by mid‑summer.

Continue pruning all fruit trees and vines and spraying twice with winter strength lime sulphur (one cup lime sulphur to eight cups water) after they have been pruned. Allow ten days between the applications and make sure the trunks, branches, twigs and the soil under the trees are thoroughly doused.

VEGETABLES

Continue watering and feeding when necessary. Remember to remove old cabbage and cauliflower stumps when these vegetables have been harvested. Pick broad beans regularly and start picking the peas as soon as the pods are well filled.

Start preparing for summer vegetables. Dig over vacant ground adding compost and/or old well‑rotted manure and fertiliser according to the requirements of the crops to be planted in the ground. When preparing ground for tomatoes add some seaweed meal.

Prepare seed pans for sowing early tomatoes, brinjals and peppers (disinfect the soil with Jeyes Fluid and also prepare individual pots for sowing seeds of marrows). If they get away early in the season they are less likely to be stung by pumpkin fly.

Continue sowing lettuce, radishes and peas and start sowing parsnips and Swiss chard again.

HERBS ARE A MUST-HAVE

2009-06-26T19:46:00.003+02:00

So many gardeners who are successful flower gardeners seem reluctant to test their skills at growing herbs. I believe strongly that every garden needs a herb section, even if it is a few containers in a sunny courtyard.

Mediterranean herbs are some of the most rewarding plants you can grow. Their leaves flavour everything from meats, soups, and stews to pizza and spaghetti. And the plants add beauty to kitchen gardens — many are evergreen in temperate climates. Most tolerate drought and less than perfect soil (though they prefer excellent drainage).

My own herb garden contains some old favourites such as rosemary, parsley, sage and thyme, as well as newer introductions, such as conehead thyme (whose flavour is similar to winter savoury) and Italian oregano thyme (which ― true to its name ― is a thyme with oregano overtones).

Most herbs are tough, wild plants that have changed remarkably little despite centuries of cultivation. Almost all of them do best in sunny locations and fertile, well-drained soil, but some will survive in partial shade and poor soil.

Herbs can occupy their own part of the garden or they can be grown with other plants. Herb gardens are often arranged in intricate patterns to accentuate the contrasting colours and textures of their foliage.

To avoid confusion when sprouts come up, label each bed carefully. Better still, draw a precise map of your planting pattern. Plan the beds so that the taller plants do not cast shade on the low-growing ones.

I am currently working on plant profiles for a whole range of popular herbs that I will be adding to my website. In the meantime I will, this weekend, add a Herb Growing Basics feature to the site. Go to http://gardeningisezee.com/?cat=10

ARUM LILIES — Plant some!

2009-06-24T21:14:00.002+02:00

While you are planning what you are going to change for your summer garden this year, give some thought to including Arum Lilies

The familiar Arum Lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica), with its opulent and sophisticated pure white spathes which brighten up watercourses and wetlands throughout the region in spring and summer, belong to an indigenous genus which is restricted to the African continent. Seven species are recognised: Zantedeschia aethiopica, Z. albomaculata, Z. elliottiana, Z. jucunda, Z. odoratum, Z. pentlandii (Golden Arum) and Z. rehmannii (Pink Arum). The common arum is found from the Western Cape through the Eastern Cape, KwaZulu-Natal, Mpumalanga and into Limpopo Province. It is evergreen or deciduous depending on the habitat and rainfall regime. In the Western Cape it is dormant in summer and in the summer rainfall areas it is dormant in winter. It will remain evergreen in both areas if growing in marshy conditions which remain wet all year around.

The white arum forms large colonies in marshy areas ranging from the coast to an altitude of 2,250m. Thus one will find them contending with humid, salt laden air at the coast and freezing, misty mountain grasslands at high altitudes. They are very versatile in the garden as a result.

For a much more in-depth look at Arums visit http://gardeningisezee.com/?p=150

CHARMING PHLOX

2009-06-18T20:09:00.002+02:00

Although it is only mid-June I am busy developing the planting scheme for my summer annuals.

I realised that I have not planted phlox (phlox drummondii) for the past two years. As I am looking for a brightly coloured display of profusely blooming flowers in a sunny area that has arisen because I had to remove an old tree, I am going to go crazy with phlox.

This is an old fashioned annual that deserves more recognition than it gets. The large clusters of flowers are very showy on compact plants. Compact is an understatement, as these plants grow only 15-45 cm tall. The most common Phlox is annual. There are also perennial varieties.

Phlox are great in containers or window boxes. A native of North America, the jewel-like flowers grow in clusters at the top of the stems. These bright coloured blossoms include shades of red, purple, scarlet, yellow, and white. Many new hybrids include striped petals.

Phlox are easily grown from seeds. Phlox seeds can be directly seeded into your flower garden or seeded under cover for transplanting later. For spring blooms, start indoors six to eight weeks before the last frost. Young seedlings will transplant well into their permanent home.

A more comprehensive profile of Phlox can be found in the Annuals category of my website. Check it out at http://gardeningisezee.com.

TODAY’S FEATURED HERB

2009-06-18T12:56:00.003+02:00

Basil (Sweet Basil) (ocimum basilicum)

I am just crazy about sweet basil. I use it all the time in soups, pasta and salads and enjoy using basil pesto. I grow my basil in big, round, fairly shallow containers in a sheltered, sunny courtyard. I also grow parsley, rocket and mint in similar containers.

Basil germinates easily from seeds and these can be sown in trays in August and kept protected until all danger of frost is past. Once the seedlings reach the four‑leaf stage they can be transplanted easily into well-drained fairly rich soil. Place them 50 cm apart and keep them shaded for a day or two. If planted in situ, sow seeds in early summer when the danger of frost is past. Newly planted out seedlings do well with a little extra compost to keep the roots cool. They also need to be watered regularly to ensure lush succulent growth. Basil makes an easy pot‑plant for a sunny window‑sill in winter.

A full profile of sweet basil can be found in the herb category of my website. Check it out at http://gardeningisezee.com. Let me know what you think.

Colourful Zinnias

2009-06-16T18:08:00.002+02:00

For brilliant colour in the hottest, sunniest part of the garden, zinnias are ideal.

Zinnias are available in almost every shade except the blues, and in a range of sizes from tiny dwarf plants with charming miniature flowers to large plants with ruffled and curly petals (yes, the hybridists have been very busy, much to the advantage of this popular flower).

Zinnias are best used in massed garden displays. Dwarf forms grow to 20cm in height while large forms can reach 70cm or more. They prefer full sun with protection from very strong wind. They are best grown in warm or tropical areas but may not do well at the coast as they are prone to mildew in humid or damp environments.

For sowing and growing tips visit my website http://gardeningisezee.com. Check out the Annuals category for a whole lot of information about zinnias.

Annuals and the Flower Garden

2009-06-16T18:00:00.003+02:00

Many Southern Hemisphere gardeners are fortunate as the mild climate allows them to have both summer and winter gardens.

Annuals give life and sparkle to the garden, providing a change of scene from season to season and tear to year. It pays handsomely to take pencil to paper and plan the summer and winter bedding schemes before the sowing seasons. Use foliage plants such as euphorbia marginata, ornamental basil and grey leaved plants to tone down and blend bright colours.

For bright contrasting colours annual plants have no match. They can be used in massed beds, for filling in gaps between perennials and shrubs, and for an attractive show of flowers in tubs and hanging baskets. In most cases they are economical plants and need only a little time and attention from a gardener before producing results. Find a lot more about the flower garden on my website http://gardeningisezee.com.

Shrub gardens need planning

2009-06-16T17:54:00.003+02:00

Whether your garden is a tiny suburban plot or several thousand square metres in extent, you can have year‑round interest and beauty by growing shrubs. But do the planning!

There are so many new housing estates, exclusive clusters and so on being developed around all our cities. What an opportunity for new home owners to lay out a great garden from the get go. Sadly, I have seen so many new gardens where the intrepid owner has laid out some flower beds, planted lawn, placed a few containers near the new pool and then . . . stuck a few shrubs almost randomly around the garden without any thought to spatial relationship, height, texture, colour or anything else.

Planted in good soil, shrubs require little or no fertiliser, very little pruning and seldom any spraying against pests or diseases. They will reward you in many different ways — by providing colour in the garden each month of the year and sprays of leaves, flowers or berries for indoor arrangements; by sheltering your home from wind; by creating a screen to ensure privacy; by introducing variety in form and foliage texture, and a perpendicular line or mass; and by hiding an ugly view or framing a good one.

You do not have to be a highly skilled gardener to make a charming shrub garden. You need to know something about the kind of climate they prefer, their height and spread, the season of the year when they are at their best, any special characteristics of their foliage, whether they are deciduous or evergreen, what soil they like, and what situation they prefer — sun or shade.

Every garden needs a master plan that will guide the long-term development of the garden, especially where trees and shrubs are concerned. Plan carefully before planting because, once planted, shrubs should not be moved. Transplanting at a later date may not kill them if it is carefully done, but it entails a good deal of unnecessary work and may slow down the growth of the shrubs for a time.

I have just written a post for my website on planning a shrub garden. The article also deals with soil preparation so please check it out. Feel free to post your comments at the foot of the website page.

EXCITING NEWS

2009-06-16T17:52:00.002+02:00

Hi everyone.

I finally have my new website up and running so check it out at http://gardeningisezee.com. My plan is to eventually have a central reference point for plant information, gardening news, events, tips and ideas and more. It will be written in easy to read and understandable English and will hopefully become a great resource, especially for new or inexperienced gardeners. I’ll be adding to the site all the time so if you have ideas and suggestions they would be very welcome. Your criticism or any suggestions regarding factual information will also be welcome.

Duggan

REWARDING RED HOT POKERS

2009-06-05T17:23:00.003+02:00

Red Hot Poker is the common name for Kniphofia (nee-FOF-ee-a). Not all ‘Red Hot Pokers’ are of that colour, for nowadays there are hybrids in white, yellow, pale orange and many shades in between.

The true Kniphofia are indigenous to Africa — there are approximately 70 species in Africa, and of these 47 occur in the eastern parts of South Africa. One will often find them growing in places as far flung as the Eastern Cape and Mpumalanga provinces of South Africa. The one thing many have in common, even though some are 45 cm high and others are a massive 2 m is the need for good drainage.

Their roots penetrate to a great depth to find all they need even in poor soil. I have seen plants killed by kindness by applying manure and compost in the hope of feeding them well. One exception is Kniphofia ensipholia also known as Torch Lily. This white flowering plant is found growing naturally along watercourses, usually on marshy soil where water is abundant. It enjoys wet feet though in cultivation it can be grown in normal garden soil if enough water is provided.

Red Hot Pokers also prefer to be left alone for several years at a stretch and if planting or dividing one must be careful to avoid roots becoming dry through exposure, and by making a good deep hole so they are not bent or bunched after insertion. Spring is the best time for moving these plants.

Having an overall stately appearance, the taller growing kinds especially, are best grown in some isolation or with very much smaller plants in front so as not to detract from their impressive display.

Two of the most popular indigenous species growing in South African gardens are Kniphofia gracilis and Kniphofia linearrifolia.

K. gracilis is particularly useful when planted winter / spring flowering Watsonias that become dormant in summer. The plant is easily grown from seed and will flower in the second year. Sow the seeds in a seed tray filled with a commercial seedling mixture and cover with with about 2mm of the mixture. Water well and keep the seeds in a shady spot until the seeds germinate in about two weeks. When the plants have about three leaves transfer them to bags to grow until they are sturdy. They can then be planted into the garden in a sunny, well drained position.

K. linearifolia grows well in rich soil in an open, sunny position or partial shade. It may be grown from seeds, which may take up to six weeks to germinate. Seeds may be sown in trays at anytime from spring to autumn. The seedlings may then be planted into the garden when they are 5-6 months old or 150 mm high and should be kept moist at all times.

The marsh poker can also be propagated from dividing large clumps, which spread by means of rhizomes. They may be lifted from the soil and divided with a sharp spade. Plant them in a well-composted growing mix (in a pot or straight into the ground) and water well. They should be kept moist until they are well established. The younger rhizomes respond well to division, whereas the older ones might struggle a bit, but can establish themselves.

Kniphofia linearifolia makes a brilliant display in a garden and the flowers last for a long time. The showy, bright-coloured flowers are ideal for adding a splash of colour to an area or making a bold statement. This plant can be used at the back of a mixed flower border, in groups in the front of a shrub border, or lining a long driveway. Flowers of this species also make excellent cut flowers.

Red Hot Pokers attract nectar feeding birds such as sugarbirds and sunbirds to the garden. They also attract bees and other insects which pollinate the flowers.

EASY TO GROW HELLEBORES

2009-06-03T16:25:00.009+02:00

The genus Helleborus covers a group of perennial plants from Europe and Asia. Virtually all are garden worthy, though the acaulescent (stemless) hybrids have become the most popular forms found in gardens.

The hellebores form by far the largest and most handsome group of winter flowering herbaceous plants. Throughout the genus there is a wonderful quality of sculptured perfection and classic poise, both of leaf and flower. They are conveniently grouped into two main sections, the ones whose flowers and leaves grow annually from the base, and the other in which they are borne from a woody stem produced the previous summer. All kinds like a little shade and shelter from he wind

Hellebores are gross feeders and amply repay a generous dressing of old manure in late spring to help them build up again for the next flowering season, for in the southern hemisphere they all flower from late June to early September.

Nearly every garden has a spot for hellebores, and the plants will thrive in many different environments. Still, they remain unknown to many gardeners despite their toughness, beauty, hardiness, and wonderful habit of blooming in winter when most other plants remain dormant. The majority of hellebores are deep-rooted, stout plants. Once established, most hellebores make drought- tolerant plants, particularly if given some dappled shade in areas of long, hot and/or dry summers. Yet, despite the fact hellebores are almost invariably sold as shade plants, in most garden conditions they will perform their best if given some sun. Many species grow wild in open meadows with only short grasses to shade the earth around them.

Most hellebores are relatively carefree plants. As with many ornamental perennials, adequate soil preparation is the key to long-term health and vigour. Though hellebores will grow in a great variety of soil conditions, a well-drained base containing plenty of organic matter suits them. Preparing deep beds will provide the extensive root systems plenty of growing room and potentially many decades of healthy growth. Ideally, the soil should receive regular moisture without being waterlogged. However, the plants are surprisingly drought-tolerant once established and can survive in less than optimum conditions.

One exciting way to grow hellebores is by sowing seed. Though it is nice to purchase a beautiful plant and put it in the ground, growing from seed can also be an enjoyable experience. Germinating seed is quite easy so long as you give them the conditions they need and exhibit a little patience (well, maybe a lot of patience is more accurate). Most plants will bloom in their third or fourth year.

Stemless hellebores divide fairly easily. Simply make sure to choose an established clump and dig up as much of the root-ball as possible. Hellebores have extensive root systems, often deeper than the height of the plant. Gently shaking or washing off the excess soil allows for better viewing. Though it is possible to divide at almost any time of the year in some climates, late spring and early fall generally provide the most opportune times for many gardeners. Dividing hellebores is the only simple way to produce more of a special plant. Careful hand pollination can result in many similar (or even superior) specimens, but seed-grown plants in many cases will differ significantly from the parent. Starting from seed is often the most efficient way to raise a healthy plant, however, given care and a mild environment, divided plants will also thrive.

TODAY’S FEATURED HERB

2009-06-03T16:22:00.001+02:00

BALM (Lemon Balm) (malissa officinalis - labiatae)

Comes from central and southern Europe. A perennial mint-like plant, it grows to between 60cm and 90cm high with a similar spread. The heart-shaped leave have a lemon scent when bruised. The tiny white flowers borne in scanty axillary clusters are not spectacular.

Balm grows well throughout South Africa, provided it can be watered throughout the year. It may die down during winter in very cold regions, but the root reshoots vigorously in Spring. Plants can be raised from seed (which is slow to germinate) or from division which is quicker and more reliable. The plants do best in rich moist soil where they get some shade in hot areas. The delicate lemon flavour of the leaves is appetising in cold drinks, salads, sauces and so on. It is a useful ingredient for potpourri, herb pillows and in herb mixtures for baths. Useful near fruit trees as it attracts bees, which helps pollination.

BLAZING COLOUR

2009-05-27T15:41:00.006+02:00

Many of Southern Africa’s Aloe species are about to bloom, attracting bees, butterflies and a vast array of garden birds. Enjoy the spectacle.

Barbara Jeppe described 139 species of Aloe in ‘Aloes of South Africa”. There are aloes flowering somewhere in the region throughout the year. The peak months are June, July and August, the bleakest and driest months for most of southern Africa. In these months the countryside comes alive with thousands of red, orange and yellow blooms of many aloe species, thereby ensuring survival for many bird species.

The larger aloes may have trunks that are partially or fully clothed in old dry leaves. Others are bare and branched like Aloe bainsii, growing to 15m or more in height. The trunk is beautifully striated. The tree aloe makes a handsome garden feature. Aloe arborescens is a dense, many branched shrub aloe. In the Transkei Region of the Eastern Cape province, this aloe has been used to create kraal fence, dense and impenetrable, and an excellent windbreak.

Aloe thraskii is the dune aloe found in KwaZulu-Natal’s dense dune forests, often close to the pounding surf. It is very easy to propagate for seaside homes. Aloe ferox (red aloe) is considered to be a very heavy producer of nectar. An Eastern Cape ornithologist recorded the following bird species visiting Aloe ferox —various sunbirds, black-headed orioles, fork-tailed drongos, weaver birds, pied starlings and speckled colies. In KwaZulu, Aloe marlothii has been known to attract doves, various tinkers, flycatchers, glossy starlings, canaries, warblers, crombecs, scimitar billed wood hoopoes, babblers, scrub robin, black tit, penduline tit, white-necked raven and yellow throated sparrow.

Aloe candelabrum is a showy aloe in the KwaZulu-Natal midlands. Most of the smaller aloes are stemless and carry less nectar, however, they may be better suited to smaller gardens. Aloe saponaria, A. chabaudii, and A. pluridens come to mind, the last growing under shade conditions in coastal bush. A. cooperii, a summer-flowering grass aloe, grows taller under damp conditions. Aloe wickensii, a native of Limpopo Province is possibly one of the most beautiful, which in full bloom appears bi-coloured, the many branched flower spikes like yellow-topped red pyramids.

Many aloe species tolerate a wide range of habitats. Propagation is easy but conditions for their native area should be simulated as much as possible. Grow them from truncheon, cuttings or seed. A branch of A. bainsii, thrust into the ground in situ will take root quickly.

TAKE NOTE

Aloes are protected species and may not be collected from the veld, or sold, without a permit. Offenders face severe fines.

The South African National Biodiversity Institute (SANBI) sells seed and publishes a seed catalogue on its website http://www.sanbi.org. For photos and cultivation information on hundreds of aloes and other indigenous plants, go to SANBI’s plant information website www.PlantZAfrica.com.

Planting

2009-05-24T19:55:00.002+02:00

Most South Africans plant too early for Spring and many bulbs benefit from late planting due to the drop in ground temperatures. Keep your planting to the important focal points, and containers, for best effects and ease of maintenance.

SOME SUGGESTIONS ARE . . .

Anemone, ranunculus, tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, sparaxis, nemesias, calendulas, Iceland poppies, petunias (in frost free areas) and pansies.

In the shade (with two to three hours of sunshine) plant primulas, cinerarias, treated daffodils, hyacinths and tulips as well as begonias and foxgloves.

Your June Diary (Part 2)

2009-05-24T16:21:00.004+02:00

June will bring the first frosts to some parts of the country. If you live in area that has frost water the garden in the morning so that the foliage is dry before sunset. Remember to keep covers handy to protect tender plants.

TREES, SHRUBS AND CLIMBERS

These need little attention at this time of the year except to be mulched and watered every three or four weeks in the summer rainfall areas. Shrubs established in containers can be planted throughout the year, but if shrubs are to be moved from one part of the garden to another this is best done in July or August but you would be wise to prepare the holes for them this month. Dig large square holes, break up the soil at the bottom and add 500g to one kilogram of superphosphate to the bottom spit. Avoid using fresh manure or immature compost in the holes.

Tender climbers such as sweet peas, bougainvilleas, mandevilla splendens etc should be protected at night by draping them with hessian or commercially available frost protection material. Remove the hessian every morning. In summer rainfall areas water the plants about once a month.

In areas where heavy frost is experienced, use hessian to protect tender young trees until they have grown above frost height (i.e. at least two metres tall).

VEGETABLES

As the early cabbages and cauliflowers are harvested remove the stumps, chop them up and put them in the compost heap. If left in the ground they will attract pests. Pick broad beans when the pods are well-filled, if left on the plants too long they will become tough. If the plants are attacked by aphids spray them with Kelpak 66 liquid seaweed, this will chase the aphids away and feed the plants at the same time.

BULBS

The first of the winter/spring flowering bulbs will start opening in June and the main concern is to keep them well watered when the weather is dry. As the beds develop, a fortnightly application of soluble fertiliser with the addition of some liquid seaweed will increase the size of the blooms and improve the colours. There are several brands of soluble fertiliser on the market.

Remember to check the Gardening is Easy blog regularly as I will continue the Garden Diary as a permanent feature.

TODAY’S FEATURED HERB

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ANISE (Aniseed) (Pimpinella anisum)

One of the most ancient herbs, indigenous to Egypt, the Levant and eastern parts of the Mediterranean. It was first cultivated by the Egyptians and then by the Greeks and Arabs. It is an annual (height 45cm, spread 30cm) which looks rather like celery with deeply cut leaves and numerous small white flowers borne in compound umbels and these are followed by brownish, aromatic ribbed fruits. As they do not transplant easily, sow the seed in situ in spring and thin them out to stand 30cm apart. The soil should be light, porous, alkaline and not too rich. Gather the seeds in late summer when ripe. The seeds can be sprinkled over cakes, pancakes, young carrots and parsnips, or used in salads and stews.

FASCINATING, EASY HERBS (Part One)

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Herb gardens look as good as they smell and its worth a little planning to achieve a fine show of shape and colour.

The history of herbs and herbalism dates back a long time. There is a tablet (a record of herbs used for medicinal purposes) in the British Museum, which was at one time in the library of Ashurbanipal, King of Assyria 668-626 BC, stating at the end that it was copied from a much earlier tablet which was written in about 2200 BC. Among the plants identified in this are figs, dates, caraway, coriander, anise and willow. Chinese and Indian records indicate that opium, ginseng, rhubarb, garlic and birch bark were among plants used long ago. And so, down through the ages herbs have played an important part in both medicines and cooking.

Gardeners are often advised to grow their herbs outside the kitchen door where they will be handy. Foolish advice here in the southern Hemisphere where the kItchen often faces south and offers a shady, cold situation, quite unsuitable for herbs which must have sun and warmth to thrive.

When laying out a herb garden, whether formal or utilitarian, divide the plants into two groups, those that enjoy very well-drained alkaline soil and those which do best in good, moist soil. Make sure the tall-growing plants will not overshadow smaller ones and plant the rows running north to south. In small gardens, grow a few herbs among the flowers where they will not be out of place.

Over the next few weeks I will deal with a wide range of interesting and popular herbs. The type of soil and growing conditions for each herb will be described. Never over-water those which need well-drained soil and a sunny position, many of which come from the Mediterranean region.

WINTER COLOUR

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Brighten up your home during the bleak winter months with window boxes, containers and pots filled with colourful plants — and pretend that Spring is already here.

The range of plants that will bloom indoors in the Winter months is surprising.

Some are genuine winter-flowering plants, others are really spring-flowering plants which are encouraged to bloom half a season early, either by the warmer conditions indoors or by controlling the number of daylight hours.

I have focused on a few plants that will flower during the Winter, and listed several more, so fill your windowsills with bright blooms at a time when cheerful colour has the most impact.

AZALEA (Azalea indica)

These beautiful plants are available in a wide range of colours. They normally flower from May to July, provided they have the light location that all flowering plants relish. Their second most important requirement is that roots should never be without water. Keep thoroughly wet by plunging the pot into a tub of water at room temperature, whenever the base of the main stem turns brown, which should be every two or three days. The pot should be immersed until all the air bubbles from the soil have escaped.

The plants should be placed in a good position away from direct heat. The best room temperature is between 10 degC and 15 degC.

Maintain a humid atmosphere around the opening flower buds by spraying regularly with clean water. Once the cold months have passed azaleas can be left out in the garden in partial shade. They should be watered and fed regularly with a weak feed. In colder climates they should be brought indoors in about mid-April and should never be left outdoors in frosty weather.

CINERAREA (Senecia Hybrida / Senecia cruenta)

These bold winter flowering annuals are usually sold in pots ready to bloom. The daisy –shaped blooms are in dazzling colours which include red, blue, mauve and purple.

They need regular feeding from mid-Autumn, and flower best in a position where they get morning sun. They are one of the very few plants that do best if they are watered every day. Cinerarias should never be allowed to become dry at the roots, for once these plants wilt they rarely revive completely. If they wilt soak the pot and contents in a basin of water for 30 minutes.

Give occasional weak feeds during the flowering season and plants should continue to flower for several weeks. Humidity will help to prolong the flowering period. Discard the plants after flowering.

TEN MORE PLANTS THAT WILL FLOWER INDOORS DURING WINTER

Daffodil (Narcissus)
Cyclamen (Primulaceae)
Begonias (Begonia Elatior)
African violets (Saintpaulia)
Camellias (Theaceae)
Crocus (Iridaceae)
Blue sage (Eranthemum pulchellum)
Slipper orchids (Paphiopedilum insigne)
Poinsettias (Euphorbia pulcherrima)
Kalanchoe (Blossfeldiana)

Your June Diary

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During the cold winter months here in the southern hemisphere plants still require watering and feeding. Now is the time to attend to all those maintenance chores which have been neglected and by July the winter annuals and early spring flowering bulbs should provide a riot of colour in the garden.

BULBS

The first of the winter/early spring flowering bulbs will start opening this month and the main concern is to keep them well watered when the weather is dry. As the buds develop a fortnightly application of soluble fertiliser with the addition of some liquid seaweed will increase the size of the blooms and increase the size. Not only does liquid seaweed have trace elements in it but it also helps plants to absorb other nutrients.

POTPLANTS

Winter flowering pot plants such as cinerarias, primroses, hyacinths an cyclamens must be watered regularly and fed using Multifeed every two weeks or plant sticks as directed on the containers. Other pot plants such as ficus, peperomias, rex begonias and dieffenbachia can be watered less frequently but the soil must not be allowed to dry out completely.

THE FLOWER GARDEN

As the winter/spring annuals start blooming remove the faded flowers promptly, this not only encourages the plants to produce more flowers but also keeps the garden looking tidy and fresh. Feed the plants regularly. Pansies are gross feeders and to produce larger blooms they must be fed every two weeks. Feed sweetpeas with special sweetpea fertiliser or 3.1.5 once a week. Dissolve a tablespoon of 3.1.5 in 5 litres (household bucket) of water and apply this to a running metre of row. Rwmove the tendrils and side shoots from the plants regularly and tie them to the trellis as they grow.

If you are going to propagate your own seedlings rather than buying seedlings fro nurseries, prepare the seed pans for sowing bedding begonias and petunias next month. Put a layer of finely sifted soil on top and level carefully.

LAWN

In the warm coastal areas the lawn can be mown if it is necessary. In dry inland areas water the lawn occasionally but thoroughly.

Check this blog regularly as we will continue the Garden Diary as a permanent feature